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KOSTUMET TRADICIONALE TEK SHQIPTARËT

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Veshjet popullore janë, pa dyshim, një nga manifestimet më të fuqishme të kulturës tradicionale. Ato janë trashëguese e transmetuese të shumë elementeve që vijnë nga lashtësia dhe nga koha e mesme, por janë njëkohësisht edhe shprehje e marrëdhënieve kulturore me popuj të tjerë gjatë shekujve. Tipet kryesore të veshjeve popullore shqiptare për burra janë: kustumi me fustanellë, kostumi me këmishë të gjatë e dollamë (cibun), sipër kostumi me tirq dhe ai me poture (pantallona të shkurtra deri te gjuri). Pra, në Shqipëri burrat kanë mbajtur si veshjet në formën e një fundi të gjerë, ashtu edhe ato në formë pantallonash, por të parat kanë dalë nga përdorimi më herët se të tjerat.

Pjesët më të zbukuruara ishin jelekët dhe xhamadanët e kostumit festiv. Burrat shqiptarë mbanin edhe stoli të ndryshme argjendi: si jastëkë gjoksi, sumbulla dekorative tek jelekët, unaza, pipa e kuti cigaresh, por mbi të gjitha, armët e brezit e të krahut, që ishin gjithnjë të stolisura pasurisht. Për gra, tipet kryesore të veshjeve ishin: kostumi me xhubletë (një fund në formë këmbane), kostumi me këmishë të gjatë e xhokë shajaku sipër, kostumi me dy futa të vendosura mbi këmishën e gjatë, njëra përpara e tjetra prapa dhe kostumi me mbështjellëse (një fund i hapur, i mbledhur tek beli me rrudha ose pala).

Në veshje, ngjyrat e zbukurimet ndryshonin sipas moshës. Për të vegjlit e të rinjtë, kostumi krahinor mund të ishte më i thjeshtë. Ndryshe nga popuj të tjerë të Ballkanit, në Shqipëri vajza që kishte arritur moshën e martesës duhet të vishej thjeshtë e pa stoli, flokët t’i mbulonte mirë me një shami dhe të mos vishte rrobë të kuqe.

Kostumi i martesës ishte varianti më i pasur i veshjes së krahinës, si për nuset edhe për dhëndurët. Për nuset, stolitë metalike ishin të pamungueshme, madje, përdoreshin edhe me tepri, sepse këtu, me sa duket, kishte rëndësi jo vetëm funksioni i tyre estetik, por edhe funksioni magjik që u atribuohej. Për nuset, rëndësi të veçantë kishte zbukurimi i kokës. Disa vjet pas martese, veshja fillonte të lehtësohej nga zbukurimet.

Të vdekurit i visheshin, sipas zakonit, ish-rrobat më të mira. Në veshjet popullore, shenjat e zisë ishin të pakta, gratë mund të vishnin praptas ndonjë nga pjesët më të zbukuruara të kostumit, psh. xhokën a përparjen.

Studimet e deritanishme kanë treguar se pjesët përbërëse të veshjeve tradicionale nuk kanë të gjitha të njëjtën moshë. Ka pjesë që të kujtojnë veshjet mesjetare me ndikime bizantine e orientale, të tjera që vijnë si një jehonë e kohës antike, por ka edhe elemente që mund të lidhen me kulturën ilire. Mund të përmendim kështu analogjitë e vërejtura midis linjës popullore dhe “dalmatikës” ilire, apo midis kapuçave, strukave (shalleve), opingave etj., dhe elementeve respektive të përdorura nga ilirët. Falë këtyre elementeve të trashëguara nga kultura ilire dhe ajo e arbërve të mesjetës, gjatë zhvillimit të tyre historik, veshjet popullore kanë arritur të fitojnë një varg tiparesh origjinale, që marrin vlerat e një treguesi etnik, i cili i dallon veshjet shqiptare nga ato të popujve të tjerë.

(Driton Sejdiu, “Enciklopedi e ilustruar botërore dhe shqiptare (Almanak 2007)”, botimet “Buzuku”, Prishtinë 2006, fq. 277-278)

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